Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
